Jayco Jayflight AKA Moon Unit w/ Starlink Satellite Internet

51 review
Travel TrailerKirkland, WA
Sleeps 4
22 ft. long
Pet friendly
Offers delivery

Brand new, easy to tow, and light weight travel trailer that is big enough to sleep four people comfortably, but small enough to fit at most rv/campsites. Rig comes with a back up camera and owner will loan the screen mount required to use it. Heat and a/c, gas stove, microwave, toilet, and shower. Full tank of propane included in price. Sleeps up to four with one queen bed and two single bunk beds. Starlink satellite internet included in the price. Starlink gets speeds up to 140 mbps as long as you are not camping in an area with aerial obstructions (meaning trees).

Weight distribution hitch provided. You vehicle is required to have brake controller.

What's included

Comes with fresh linens/towels, empty grey and black tanks, a tank full of fresh water, required supplies to hook up to city water, and four camping chairs.

Other things to note

Please do not plug into electric without the surge protector. Please pump out grey and black water tanks to avoid $100 fee. Every trailer is different, so please read the provided instructions to avoid damaging the rig or incurring fees.

Important: Please follow these instructions while using the travel trailer to avoid damage to the
mechanics of the vehicle.
Using the back-up camera: Make sure your headlights are in the “on” position and that the
monitor is plugged into your cigarette lighter. Touch the screen to see the rear of the trailer.

Unhitching and Leveling The Trailer
1. Use the leveling blocks (big legos) in the trailer storage compartment to level the trailer
side-to-side. There is a small circular level you need to place on the floor of the trailer to
determine if the trailer is at a level site.
a. If you need to level the trailer, stack the legos to the desired height in front or
behind the tire you want to level. Pull forward or reverse the trailer onto the
leveling blocks.

2. Once the trailer is level, put down the wheel chocks to prevent the trailer from rolling
forward or backwards.
3. Place the Ox Block underneath the center of the tongue jack.
4. Crank the tongue jack until jack reaches the Ox Block and you begin to see your car
moving upwards (this is due to the reduced weight on your personal vehicle).
5. Remove the silver L pins from the weight distribution bars (the ones closest to the trailer)
and place pins securely in the trailer compartment or in your glove box (VERY
IMPORTANT: do not lose these pins or else you will be stranded).
6. Use the crowbar to pop out the weight distribution bars.
7. Pull them towards you and remove the silver pins (closest to your personal vehicle) and
place the pins securely in the trailer compartment or in your glove box (don’t lose these
8. Remove the weight distribution bars and place securely in the trailer compartment
9. Remove all chains, brake-away cable, electrical from your personal vehicle.
10. Remove the gold hitch pin and place it securely in the RV compartment or in your glove
box (VERY IMPORTANT: do not lose these pins or else you will be stranded).
11. Pull the hitch latch up and out to free the hitch ball.
12. Continue cranking up until the hitch ball separates from the trailer.
13. Level the trailer front-to-back by using the circular level (placed on the trailer floor) and
use the tongue jack crank to find the desired height. (Sleeping on an incline is very
annoying; using the trailer on an incline without leveling can damage the refrigerator
and/or cause A/C condensation to drip inside).
14. Place at least 4 leveling blocks under each stabilizer jack (scissor jacks in all four
corners underneath the trailer).
15. Retrieve the silver crank with a socket on the end from the trailer storage compartment
and lower the stabilizer jacks until they make contact with the leveling blocks.
16. Make one more full turn using the crank to tighten.
a. If you can move the leveling blocks with your foot, crank one more full turn.
17. Do this to all four of the jacks to reduce trailer sway/rocking.

Set-Up Checklist
1. Connecting to Shore Power
a. Once you’ve successfully unhitched and leveled the trailer, you can plug into
shore power and connect to city water.
b. Remove the shore power cord and the surge protector (never plug the trailer into
the electrical box without the surge protector) from the trailer storage
c. Plug the surge protector into the site’s electrical box.
i. You might have to switch on the site’s electrical breaker to get power to
the surge protector.

d. Plug the shore power cord into the surge protector.
e. Connect the power cord to the trailer outlet and twist the cap around the plug to

2. Connecting to City Water
a. Disclaimer: If you are connecting to city water you don’t need to turn on the
“water pump” switch in the trailer. The water pump should only be switched on
when you are using the trailer without a city water connection.
i. You need to fill the “fresh water/potable water” tank and switch on the
water pump to have running water without a city water connection.
b. Remove the clear bin containing the water hoses from the trailer’s storage
compartment. The water regulator (gold attachment with orange top) and blue
water filter is already attached to the drinking water hose.
c. Attach the side with the water regulator and blue water filter to the water source
(water tap). Screw tightly.
d. Tightly screw the other end of the hose to the trailer where it says “city water
e. Turn on the water. If you have any leaks at the water tap there are some rubber
rings in the water hose bin you can use to prevent leaks and reduce water waste.

3. Open the Propane Tank
a. Walk to the propane tank and turn the knob in the “open” direction.
4. Release pressure from hot water heater
a. To the right of the city water connection, there is a black box (twist the pin to
b. Push on the little silver lever in the top right to release pressure in the hot water
heater tank. If there’s pressure in there you’ll hear a hiss and water will begin to
seep out. Once that happens, you’ve relieved the pressure and can close the
c. Go inside the trailer and switch on the hot water heater (electric switch if you’re
attached to shore power; propane switch if you are not on shore power).

5. The Slide-Out
a. Go inside the trailer and hold down the “out” button for the slide-out. Once it is
fully extended, hold for additional 3 seconds to ensure the slide out gears are
aligned (if you don’t you might break it when you sit down in the dinette).

6. The Awning
a. Go inside the trailer and hold down the “out” button for the awning. Once it is fully
extended (you see the little flap fall), stop holding.

7. Climate Control
a. If you need heat, adjust the thermostat near the bathroom door.
b. If you need A/C, turn on the A/C unit above the queen bed. Do not drop the
temperature below 65 degrees otherwise the unit may freeze up (it hasn’t
happened yet, but it’s very possible).

8. Stereo and Bluetooth
a. The trailer has internal and external speakers. It’s a good idea to make sure
you’re not blasting music outside the trailer at night (buttons Zone 1 and Zone 2
control the speakers).
b. To connect to bluetooth, power on the stereo and hit the bluetooth button.
c. Open your bluetooth settings and connect to iRV 36.
9. Using the stove
a. Disclaimer: open the vents in the ceiling of the trailer while cooking. You don’t
want to breathe in propane and the smoke detectors are very sensitive.
b. Push the button on the stove to allow the flow of propane–the button turns blue.
c. Use the stove normally.
d. Once finished, push the button on the stove to turn off the flow of propane–the
button should be clear.

10. Using the toilet
a. Please ONLY use the toilet paper provided in the trailer - this is a special toilet
paper that dissolves in the tank and will not clog the unit sensors. There are extra
rolls of toilet paper located under the left dinette seat cushion.
b. NEVER flush anything other than the RV toilet paper down the toilet, please
dispose of sanitary products and other waste in the garbage. These items will
clog the black water tank causing a poop-splosion.

11. Additional Information
a. You can find clean towels in the cabinet above the queen bed.
b. There are bag chairs for your use in the storage compartment.
c. There is additional toilet paper and paper towel under the left dinette seat
d. There is additional storage under both dinette seat cushions.
e. Please remember to close the ceiling vents if it is raining.
f. Please keep the screen door to the trailer closed to prevent insects from getting
g. The hot water tank allows for two quick hot showers before you run out of hot
water, plan accordingly.
h. Please make sure not to allow any large food particles down the kitchen sink
drain, it will clog the gray water tank.
i. The dinette may fold out into an additional sleeping space if needed.
12. That’s it! You are fully set up!

Departure Checklist
1. Interior checklist
a. Close the vent flaps in the ceiling of the trailer
i. One in the main cabin and one in the bathroom.
b. Remove all personal items from the trailer.
c. Close the propane tank.
d. Put the broom in the bathroom and shut the bathroom door.
e. Make sure no items are near or under the slide-out.
f. Push the “in” slide-out button to pull the slide out in and hold for additional 3
seconds to align the gears.
g. PUsh the “in” awning button to pull the awning in. Hold for an additional 3
seconds to align the gears.
h. Turn off all the switches on the wall (i.e. hot water heater, water pump (if used) so
that none are orange.

2. Exterior checklist:
a. Disconnect shore power and surge protector.
i. Wind up nicely and place back into the trailer storage compartment.
b. Disconnect the water regulator/water filter from the water tap and the trailer,
drain, and wrap nicely and put back into the clear water hose bin and place into
the trailer storage compartment.
c. Double check that the propane tank is closed
d. Use the crank to put up the stabilizer jacks (scissor jacks in all four corners under
the trailer).
e. Put the leveling blocks away.
f. Crank the trailer tongue jack to elevate the trailer (at least one inch clearance
above the ball hitch on your car).
i. Make sure the latch is up on the trailer hitch so it can receive the ball

g. Very carefully, reverse your car to position the ball hitch under the trailer hitch.
h. Crank the trailer down until the ball hitch slides completely into the trailer hitch.
i. Put the latch down.

1. If the latch does not go down it means the ball hitch is not securely
in there.
2. In that case, you need to crank back up and pull forward a
centimeter or two or reverse a centimeter or two (assuming you
are not off-center).

j. Put the gold hitch pin into the latch to secure the lock.
k. Attach the chains so that they criss-cross under the hitch.
l. Attach the brake-away cable to your car.
m. Plug in the electrical wiring to enable brake lights, brake controller, and back-up
camera. (Disclaimer: your headlights have to be switched on for camera to
receive power).

n. Slide in the weight distribution bars and secure with the silver pins (if you don’t
they’ll fall off in the road).
o. Push them towards the trailer and then use the crowbar to pop them in place.
Secure with the L silver pins.
p. Remove the wheel chocks and place securely in the trailer storage compartment.
q. Crank the tongue jack until the jack is in its full upright position.
r. Remove the Ox Block and put in the trailer storage compartment.
s. Make sure the trailer door is closed and the door is locked.
t. Make sure the stairs are fully folded in and underneath the trailer (they
don’t stick out).
u. Do a full walk around to ensure nothing else is laying out or forgotten.
v. Get in your personal vehicle and pull forward off of the leveling blocks (if used).
w. Place the leveling blocks in the trailer storage compartment.
x. Test your back-up camera and brake lights and you’re good to go!
Emptying the Gray and Black Water Tanks (Your Poop)
1. Disclaimer: you will be fined $100 if you do not pump out your waste. You receive the
trailer poop-less, you return the trailer poop-less.
2. Locate the dump station/sani-station in your RV park or campsite. If they don’t have one
you need to use Google Maps to find one.
3. The septic holes are usually always in the ground on the left side of where you pull up.
4. Retrieve the BIG clear bin containing the orange hose from the trailer storage
compartment. Put on the latex gloves (you can find them in the storage compartment).
5. Twist really hard to unscrew the sewer cap on the trailer. Attach the matching end of the
hose to this fixture until you feel it lock in place.
a. If you don’t, you may experience a poop-splosion and you don’t want that.
6. Walk to the septic hole (open it if there’s a lid or move the rock covering it) and place the
orange funnel into the hole (the more narrow end of the funnel goes into the ground).
7. Place the other end of the hose (the clear elbow) into the orange funnel.
8. Walk back to the trailer and pull the black handle first. Pull it all the way open. This is a
value so if you don’t pull it all the way open stuff will get stuck and then this gets gross.
9. Wait a few minutes until you don’t hear any more waste pouring into the hose. You can
use your hand to touch the hose to feel if anything is still pouring through.
10. Push the black handle all the way back in to close the valve to the black tank.
11. Pull the gray handle all the way out.
12. Wait a few minutes until you don’t hear any more waste pouring into the hose. You can
use your hand to touch the hose to feel if anything is still pouring through.
13. Push the gray handle all the way back in.
14. First, ensure no waste is left in the hose. Use gravity to ensure it all falls into the
septic tank before unhooking anything.
15. Then, detach the hose from the trailer and keep the clear elbow end in the ground while
you use the water hose (they have these at all dump stations) to flush out the hose until

the water runs clear. This part is gross but necessary so you don’t splash waste on
yourself while putting the hose away.
16. Ensure no water is left in the sewage hose before pulling it out of the ground.
17. Use the water hose to rinse everything off, including the ground (just in case).
18. Put the hose caps back on the hose and place the funnel and the hose back into the bin.
You might have to slinky the hose together for it to fit properly.
19. Put the bin back in the trailer storage compartment. Lock the compartment.
20. Make sure the sewer cap has been screwed back on to the trailer.
a. If you are not yet returning the trailer, you need to put treatment down the
toilet to use the toilet again.
b. There are little bottles of sewer treatment under the kitchen sink. Grab one of the
little bottles open and pour down the toilet. Keep the empty bottle and put it
back–I refill these because they are perfect portion sizes.
i. Don’t skip this step–the whole trailer will reek of raw sewage.
c. Flush the toilet. The toilet is now ready to go.
d. If you are returning the trailer, skip this treatment step and I’ll do it later.


2022 Jayco Jayflight
  • Sleeps 4
  • Gross weight: 4,500 gal
  • Hitch weight: 4,500 gal


  • Inside shower
  • Toilet
  • Solar
  • Audio inputs
  • Radio
  • Wi-Fi
  • Dining table
  • Kitchen sink

Meet your host, Miriah

Member since 2022

Host bio coming soon! Miriah is committed to providing great stays for guests.

Usually answers in less than 24 hours

Rules and policies

  • Pet friendly
  • Tailgating friendly
  • No music festivals
  • No smoking
24/7 roadside assistance
Learn more about Roadside Assistance

Roadside assistance on every rental, plus help planning your trip or operating the RV.

Learn more about Roadside Assistance

Availability and rates

December 2022
January 2023

There’s a 3 night minimum stay

  • Weekly (7-29 nights): 14.2% off nightly rate
  • Monthly (30+ nights): 14.2% off nightly rate
  • Security deposit: $500.00 (refundable)
  • Prep fee: $50.00. This fee will cover professional cleaning and required maintenance checks.

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Kirkland, Washington

Exact location provided after booking

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