Big Bend National Park
RV Guide

One of the nice things about Big Bend is that, for the most part, winters are quite mild. So, sites like Emory Peak are rarely off-limits. At some 7,800 feet, it’s the highest point in the Chisos Mountains. But you wouldn’t know it until you get close. From a distance, Emory Peak looks more like Emory Molehill. A 1.5-mile trail takes hikers to the summit. It’s not terribly challenging, but it is quite steep. As you walk, enjoy the flowers and wildlife that are abundant in the area.

This mining ghost town makes for a great detour before navigating the camper towards Big Bend. Around 1903, the Chisos Mining Company discovered large deposits of quicksilver. At one point, Terlingua was home to about 2,000 people. Quicksilver prices were high during World War I, and cheap Mexican labor was available throughout the period as well. Prices fell in the 1930s, and the company declared bankruptcy in 1942. There is still some activity in the area, however. In late fall to early winter, about 10,000 visitors come for one of the world’s largest chili cook-offs.

Perhaps the most unspoiled part of this desolate region has no trail markings and no parking areas, so leave the Airstream at camp. There are some very old stone quarry ruins in Apache Canyon. Early peoples lived here because of a large spring and the nature of the rocks which are crystalline and easy to make into crude tools. These rock formations also make Apache Canyon one of the most colorful parts of Big Bend. Apache Canyon is the perfect place to experience all the geology, biology, and history of the park.

It takes most people three days to pass over the thirty-mile Outer Mountain Loop Trail. If you plan side trips to Emory Peak or the South Rim, add an extra day to your trek. Much like the Lost Mine Trail, the Outer Mountain Loop essentially combines the Juniper Canyon, Dodson, Pinnacles, Blue Creek, and Laguna Meadows trails. So, there is a lot to see on your extended adventure. This trail is also one of the most hazardous in the park. Each year, rangers respond to several emergencies. Most of these are heat-related illnesses, which is why you should not attempt this trail between May and October.

At its peak in the 1930s, the Homer Wilson Ranch, sometimes called the Blue Creek Ranch, covered some 28,000 acres of land. Today, the main house still stands, and because of the dry desert air, it’s in much the same shape today as it was back in the 1930s. The house became part of the National Register of Historic Places in 1975, so it's a must-visit location for history enthusiasts.

The park’s primary information center is also one of the nicest visitor centers. It is open 364-and-a-half days a year (with reduced hours on Christmas Day). Most people begin their sojourns here, as the center is a one-stop-shop to pay admission fees, collect backcountry permits, and learn more about the park and its RV-friendly campgrounds. There’s a large store nearby that has groceries and gasoline for people who need to stock up on supplies before heading further into the park.

Boquillas Canyon will leave you feeling awestruck. Getting to Boquillas Canyon can be a challenge, considering the roads are not exactly Autobahn-quality. But the risk is worth the reward in this case—the canyon is deeper than Arizona’s Grand Canyon in some places! Amenities are waiting for you before and after you finish the hike, such as a new visitor center, a country store, and a large parking lot suitable for motorhomes. Once you reach the canyon, it’s smooth sailing. The hiking trail goes all the way to the water’s edge, and river tours are available if you don't want to stop exploring once you reach the water.

The Sotol Vista overlook does not disappoint. After just a short hike, visitors see views of the entire western portion of the park. The Vista portion is not only on the ground. If you ask park rangers for the best stargazing spot, they will probably point you in the direction of Sotol Vista. On clear fall nights, it’s often possible to see the curvature of the Milky Way from this spot. Since the views are outstanding at Sotol Vista, it would be a shame to visit the location just once during your trip, so plan on stopping at least once during the day and again at night.

Hikers planning to explore Mariscal Canyon should be aware that the landscape that surrounds the canyon is arid and remote. That’s saying a lot, considering most of Big Bend National Park is fairly desolate. The trail starts flat as it begins on the edge of the Chihuahuan Desert. The closer hikers get to the Chisos Mountains, the steeper the path becomes. The trail markings are piles of rocks, so pay attention to the formations so you won't get lost. Once you reach the canyon rim, there are some amazing views of the Rio Grande River far below, so don't forget to pack your camera and take it with you on your hike. Once your trek is complete, you’ll have a feeling of satisfaction knowing that you conquered one of nature’s more imposing obstacles.

The South Rim Trail is a 12.5-mile trail that is doable in a day, although it would be a very long day. Some people get a camping pass and spend a night away from the comfort of their camper to take full advantage of this hike. The night skies are so dark that the views are simply amazing, especially at somewhat higher elevations. There are several designated campsites along the trail, and all of them are equipped with chemical toilets and bear boxes. Be especially watchful for the trail stops marked South Rim and Big Drop. The South Rim overlook offers excellent views of the Santa Elena Canyon and practically the entire southern half of the park. The Big Drop is big, indeed.

With names like Dog Canyon and Devil's Den, these features have to be good, right? These two areas are limestone canyons nestled in the Santiago Mountains near the northern edge of the park. The two-mile Dog Canyon Trail cuts through a wide and deep ravine, so there is occasional shade along the way. Nevertheless, the trail is awfully hot in the summer because of the rocks and minimal cover. There are also some cool vertical cliffs peppered with sagebrush and other plants. Devil’s Den is even nicer than Dog Canyon. It resembles a wide slot canyon. It’s beautiful and easier to navigate on foot, so don't forget to pack your hiking boots and camera in your campervan for this trip.

If you only have a day in Big Bend National Park, spend it on the Lost Mine Trail. The trail is well-marked, packed with informative displays, and close to the main ranger station and visitor center with plenty of RV parking available. Deep canyons, lush forested mountains, colorful desert ecosystems, and views of Casa Grande Peak are all features of this trail. The final third of the trail is a little more difficult to navigate, but you didn't come to Big Bend to walk up and down driveways. No one is exactly sure where the lost mine is, other than it’s somewhere near the end of the trail. Supposedly, at one time, miners were blindfolded on their way to and from the mine. Later, roving Comanches wiped out most of the whites in the area, forcing the mine to close forever.

News flash: deserts get hot in the summer. If your schedule only permits a summer vacation, it may be a good idea to cut back on the desert trail hikes. Not to worry, because thanks to park features like the paved Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, you can still take in all the sites and sounds from the front seat of your Sprinter van. This thirty-mile drive takes visitors very close to a number of attractions, including Sotol Vista, Sam Nail Ranch, Mule Ears, Tuff Canyon, Lower Burro Mesa, and Santa Elena Canyon. This Drive is not just a sightseeing adventure, although the sights would be more than enough to see. The Scenic Drive is also a journey through the park’s geological, biological, and commercial history.

Warm summers are an excellent time to explore Big Bend’s high mountains. You cannot get much higher than the Chisos Mountains. Rangers close much of the area during the fall and winter to protect the fragile peregrine falcons. The sage-covered slopes, sharp canyon-like drop-offs, and colorful desert floor have attracted visitors for thousands of years. These mountains are also one of the most habitable areas of the park. There are several Texas towns in the area, as well as two Mexican towns that straddle the border.

This 12-mile trail is a bit strenuous to tackle in one day. That’s especially true in summer when the weather is hot. Many people get backcountry permits and camp away from the motorhome for a night or two. However, the payoff is one of the best views of Big Bend. Visitors enjoy the sweeping Sierra del Carmen Mountains, majestic Rio Grande River, and the river’s canyon. Rio Grande’s water is hopelessly contaminated. No matter how many purifiers you use, you cannot drink it. So pack plenty of water with you before starting your expedition.

Persimmon Peak is one of the most prominent mountains in the entire park. Some truly nice views are visible from the summit. Almost the entire western and southern parts of Big Bend are observable from the top of the peak. To reach the summit, a hiking trail leads you to the top. Before heading for your hike, be aware that it is rather steep and rocky, so you will want to double knot those hiking boots before leaving the RV.

Like most of the other hiking trails in Big Bend, Mule Ears is a mostly-easy hike with a few challenging spots and a gratifying payoff at the end. In this case, that payoff is a desert spring and a unique rock formation. The Mule Ears subtly change shape as you get closer and view them from different angles. That’s one of the things that makes this hike worthwhile. Another cool aspect is the flowers that bloom in spring. Cattails and ferns are especially prominent. You'll be talking about this treck long after you return to the camper for the night.

Grapevine Hills is known for its picturesque views of Balanced Rocks at the end of a 2.2-mile hiking trail. The trail is mostly flat until the last quarter mile; the entire path is over a sandy wash that’s easy to tread. Given the nature of the trail and the cool rock formations, the Grapevine Hills area is especially popular with kids. Watch out for snakes, though; they like to stay in the shady places between rocks.

Most people choose to experience one of Big Bend’s most popular attractions on either an overnight or a three-day boat excursion, so lock up the RV and get ready for a bumpy ride. The first dozen or so miles along the river are an easy trip, especially if the water level is low. As you paddle, you get to see how Big Bend’s ecosystem changes from desert to riparian. Then, you hit the rapids. At certain water levels, the Rock Slide can be a Class IV obstacle. When you get to the end, a shuttle is available to get you back to your starting point. Or, you can always turn your canoe around and go back the way you came.

Just a few steps on the five-mile Chimneys Trail will remind you that not all desert hikes involve blowing sands and steep dunes. There are no signposts or other markings on the trail, but it is well-worn and easy to follow—just look for a line in the rock. At first, hikers see little more than rock outcroppings in the near distance and scattered plants along the desert floor. But towards the end of the hike, the Chimney Mountains rise prominently in the distance. There is no shelter from the sweltering summer sun, so, leave early to avoid hiking during the heat of the day and try not to walk this trail during summer.